08.06.06
Razor bumps and ingrown whiskers
There’s a great post on this topic at ShaveMyFace.com, from the member themba:
Let’s start by defining razor bumps and ingrown hairs and shaving trauma. The first two are both usually refered to as ingrown hairs, but they are not the same They both make up PFB (Pseudofolliculitis Barbae)
Razor bumps are caused by hair that is cut and re-enters the skin at an adjacent location. The site where the hair re-enters becomes inflamed and produces a razor bump as a reaction. Razor bumps can be caused by how one’s hair grows, whether curly or in a direction other than straight out.
Ingrown hairs are caused by hair that is cut below skin level and re-grows without a chance to exit the follicle. They can become quite long if not allowed to escape. My roomate in college had one he finally got free that ended up being over an inch long.
Shaving trauma is usually caused be a dull blade, a sharp blade with bad technique, or improper shaving preparation.
The best solution for razor bumps is to maintain a shave close enough to prevent the hair from growing long enough to get a chance to re-enter the skin at the same time avoiding trauma while shaving. In case you are wondering how come this is not a problem with hair that is left to grow, the answer is that a razor blade will cut each hair and leave a very sharp and pointed tip, allowing it to easily pierce the skin.
That brings us to ingrown hairs. As I previously mentioned in the case of razor bumps you have to consistently maintain a close enough shave to keep hair from re-entering the skin. At the same time, the best solution to prevent ingrown hairs is to cut hair at or slightly above skin level. Now you can see why this can be very problematic for some. In order to be effective you will will have to work on your technique, enabling you to gradually reduce stubble while avoiding trauma. If you exerience razor bumps due to curly hair or hair not growing straight out of the follicle, you will have to start by being able to give yourself a shave that prevents razor bumps and work your way up to a shave that is as close as you can get without ingrowns. This type of control is crucial to effectively deal with PFB
A Mach III is not the best candidate for the choice of razors to deal with PFB. I would recommend first a Bic Metal or Injector to use, to work on your technique, followed by a double-edged razor once you are good at stubble reduction while avoiding trauma. Just remember a good foundation is everything. It is better to have a PFB-free face, and micro-fine stubble, than a clean-shaven face full of PFB. From there you can work your way to your best shave.
Luckily, I don’t suffer from this problem, but many do. This gives you an idea of the kind of advice you can get on the forums.
UPDATE: This is interesting:
I’m the classic African American male with chronic razor bumps and ingrown hair problems. It’s so annoying, if I shave too aggressively or too often I’ll get ingrown hairs, if I DON’T shave daily I’ll get razor bumps, and if I spin around three times and whistle dixie I’ll get both.
Well, after much research I found themba’s suggestion to use a lice comb to free up the hair that causes the razor bumps and the ingrowns. It worked!!! I’ve gone two days without shaving (which normally results in an itchy nightmare) and my skin is healing up quickly. I’m still trying out different blades (I’m currently using a Vision/Feather combo) and razors to help alleviate the problem. But the lice comb technique has definitely made the process a lot easier to bear. Thanks themba for all of your research and testing.
Themba recommends using the lice comb on wet skin. My process is actually very similar to shaving:
- Wash face with hot soapy water. (I use KMF olive oil soap.)
- Rinse and leave face very wet.
- Comb face with firm pressure ATG at about the same angle as shaving. Use less pressure and a more shallow angle when going over bumps.
- Dry face, and I use Min Solution 2 (it’s just like tendskin but has a splash of spearmint and comes in a very handy refillable roll-on bottle. (It’s expensive but I plan on refilling it with homemade tend skin.))
- Let the Min dry, and apply moisturizer of choice. (I use KMF fragrance free.)
I’m still experimenting and trying to refine the process (and also setting up an appointment with a dermatologist).
UPDATE 2: Also read this thread.
Dwayne Florence said,
10 December 2006 at 6:19 pm
I am an Air Force Officer who happens to be black. Officers unlike Noncommissioned Officers (sergeants) are rarely ever permitted to get shaving waivers, hence the reason I am suffering from PFB. The good thing is it’s localized to the right side of my neck; however, it’s extremely uncomfortable; itchy, painful, and sore. I spend at least an hour each night releasing the trapped hairs.
I’ve tried every razor sold; Mach III, Sensor Excel, Sensor, Bic, et al. But I’ve had SOME success with the Merkur Vision. Yes, it’s a learning curve and I’m still in the infant stages but my progress is improving. I’m going to try the alum block and the application of pre-shave oil and lathering post showering and test where that gets me. I have a very good badger hair brush and I use The Art of Shaving line of shaving cream and after shave balm. I hope I’ll start getting some relief!
LeisureGuy said,
10 December 2006 at 6:25 pm
I hope it works out. Do take advantage of the shaving forums (like ShaveMyFace.com) to get more detailed advice. Shaving oils generally are thought not to help much, though. I have not used them to any degree, though some do like Pacific Shave Oil. I do use glycerine occasionally as an every-pass pre-shave, and that does seem to work. Try also using hair conditioner on your beard when you shower. Rinse it off, and then shave immediately after showering.
A few other thoughts: Do try LetterK’s sampler packet of blades—you want the sharpest blade that will work for you. (For me, that’s the Feather, but maybe not for you.) And for the Vision, you want the lowest setting (closest to “N”
that will work.
I highly recommend that you try one of QED’s shaving sticks (scroll down at the link). They really soften the beard nicely.
Anthony Walker said,
15 December 2006 at 10:52 pm
I’ve tried numerous things with regard to razor bumps and I finally heard from a friend that a new shave line has the solution so I tried it. Its called Razor Rinse and it was, no joke, the end of my razor burn. You put it on the blade before you shave and it kills all the bacteria on the blade. They have a website to check out - yourritual.com.
LeisureGuy said,
16 December 2006 at 11:53 am
I brought this up on a forum, and the suggestion was that a less expensive way to disinfect your razor blade would be to dip it in some isopropyl alcohol or hydrogen peroxide after rinsing the razor after you shave and again before shaving. Also, if bacterial infection is a cause, you might try an alum bar after the shave, since it is antiseptic.
LeisureGuy said,
16 December 2006 at 5:23 pm
Also, this good comment:
Anthony Walker said,
16 December 2006 at 8:24 pm
Ya, I tried simple alcohol before…and it helped but the wife thought the smell of straight alcohol was too potent, stung a little, and left my face too dry. Razor Rinse has a simple lemony type scent that takes it up a notch. And, you don’t have to redip into it …so one time before I start shaving and it works.
It’s not dirty, bacteria laden razors that have caused me problems. New blades used once or twice have staph bacteria starting to grow on them…from the skin sloughing. I heard people carry staph on their skin which is probably what my problem was.
As for the angle & pressure, yes that always helps. Thanks for the advice.
Chip Gaston said,
14 January 2007 at 10:23 pm
Like Dwayne, I am also African-American, and I have found that applying a shaving balm (I have used Nivea) and High Time Bump Stopper 2 cream after shaving have helped prevent razor bumps from forming for me. I haven’t had razor bumps in years, I am relatively new to the badger brush and shaving cream/shaving soap method of shaving, but I love it! I’ll never go back to the canned stuff.
I currently use Taylor of Old Bond Street’s Lavender, and I love it, but I would like to experiment with other quality shave creams. Any suggestions?
I also use an old Shick double edged razor. Woul I notice a difference using a Merkur or other double edged razor, which I have seen advertiseed on some sites?
Thanks for any suggestions.
LeisureGuy said,
15 January 2007 at 8:57 am
Hi, Chip. Taylor Avocado is a shaving cream that a lot of people like, and it’s worth a try. Also, a lot of people (including me) like Nancy Boy shaving cream. It doesn’t require a brush, but OTOH works fine with a brush. And I especially like J.M. Fraser’s shaving cream. It has a light, lemony fragrance, but you have to order from Canada. OTOH, it’s quite inexpensive.
I also strongly recommend trying one of QED’s shaving sticks (Mocha-Java is a particularly nice one) and perhaps his Special 218 in the tub. Honeybee Sue’s shea-butter shaving soaps are very reasonably priced and good to use—Mocha Coffee, Fresh Lemon, and Lilac are all excellent scents, and you can get all three for one shipping payment (of $4.05). In fact, you may be able to get a 4th—ask Sue.
Different razors definitely have a different feel. If you like the Schick, you might put in a “Want To Buy” for a Gillette Super Speed on one of the shaving forums, or you could try eBay for that. The shaving forum, though, is more likely to deliver a trouble-free razor. The Merkur 1904 is a very pleasant little razor, and the Merkur Hefty Classic (”HD”
is a time-honored standby. The Vision is spectacular but expensive.
Different blades is a bigger deal, probably, than different razors, and I do encourage you to try the sampler pack. I’ve been using Feathers, but had an exceptionally nice shave this morning with a Euro Gillette. I personally don’t care for Merkur razors, though some like them. But the sampler pack is the way to go to find the blade that works for you.
Dominick said,
7 March 2007 at 7:39 am
I have been reading up on the best shave method and have found these methods very helpful. I just bought my first safety razor and I love the results. I’m just trying to work this into my daily head shaving routine. Needless to say it’s not working well…
I have always had problems with ingrown hairs and razor bumps. I have been using this product for many years to prevent them and would like to pass the info on to help others. The stuff is called Tend Skin. I can only buy it from salons but you can check the website http://www.tendskin.com. I hope this helps someone. It has worked for me and now with my new safety razor, I rarely ever get them.
NEWshaver said,
7 October 2007 at 12:30 pm
I’m 16, just started shaving, and I’ve got razor bumps. I’m keen to try a few of these shaving method when they’re gone. How do you go about releasing these trapped/ingrown hairs?
LeisureGuy said,
7 October 2007 at 12:36 pm
Take a look at this thread. (The link is also in the book.)
mcqtip19 said,
15 May 2008 at 12:17 pm
Hey NEWshaver, I had the same problem and I’ve been using this stuff called razor rinse, search it in Google. it goes on your blade and kills staph and nasty stuff before every shave. Really helped me and might work for you. worth a try.
LeisureGuy said,
15 May 2008 at 12:32 pm
I’m about to publish the second edition of the book. It includes a new chapter on skin problems, including razor bumps and ingrowns.