Later On

A blog written for those whose interests more or less match mine.

Taconic plus Stetson

with 10 comments

SOTD 22 Feb 2014

An excellent result today, though I changed blades at the end: just a little too much effort in cutting.

First the prep: the Mühle silvertip is a wonderful brush and it ginned up an excellent lather from my Taconic Bay Rum shaving cream. Three passes with a Gillette 7 O’Clock SharpEdge blade produced a BBS result, and a splash of Stetson Classic finished the shave in fine style. The razor is the second model that iKon made. It’s stainless, but I had it replated in gold because I like it so much.

Written by LeisureGuy

22 February 2014 at 9:12 am

Posted in Shaving

10 Responses

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  1. I’m getting through with a Baxter of California chrome plated DE safety razor, & Derby DE Blades
    allegedly produced in Turkey. I tried shaving soap & canned creams. Could not get the right con-
    sistency from the soap, but have found Noxzema canned cream to do a suitable job on a barbed
    wire beard. Even tried it on my head, & people tell me to turn off the radium (chrome dome) effect.

    BIG CHRONO

    22 February 2014 at 9:47 am

  2. As I explain in the book (and apologies if you’ve already read that) lather problems quite frequently are due to hard water, particularly for soaps. Since a good lather greatly increases the pleasure of the shave, I encourage you to experiment a little. You can test for hard water by buying (for about $1) a gallon of distilled (or “purified”) water at the drugstore, where it is sold for use in steam irons, steamers, and vaporizers. If you get a good lather with that (and brush the soap vigorously and firmly and briskly until the bubbles being formed are microscopic—at that point the brush is fully loaded) using the purified water, you can try softening your tap water by using a small pinch of citric acid in a sink full of hot water, or a VERY small pinch in a mug of hot water.

    Derby blades were tuggy for me, but am pleased that they work for you—of course, one knows best how a brand of blade works by trying a good variety: the differences are amazing and sometimes a brand that one thought was good turns out, in trying other brands, to be so-so.

    If your beard is extremely tough, as you say, then I strongly recommend that, once you routinely get a fine shave with no nicks or burn, you try a Merkur 37C slant-bar razor. The difference in shaving ease can be amazing. Use a very light touch—i.e., no pressure—and with the right brand of blade (and you may have to do a little more exploration with any new razor) the stubble is wiped away effortlessly.

    LeisureGuy

    22 February 2014 at 10:27 am

  3. Just a followup to my earlier post with regard to the Tamarinda shaving soap. It turns out that I do not have a good result with this soap. It lathers like crazy. The brush is full of micro bubbles and loads and loads of lather. First pass is a dream. For the second pass, while the brush still appears to have a good quantity of lather, applied to the face it is very thin. On the third pass, there is no lather.

    I use other soaps to good result. Even my “cheap” plug of Williams Shaving Soap (actually, not a bad shave for me).

    I get the same result from a silver tip or one of my new purchases – Omega Boar and Vie-Long Horse (thanks for the suggestions).

    JH2

    22 February 2014 at 10:50 am

  4. I have certainly encountered soaps of that sort. I assume that something is off in the formulation. Olive-oil-based soaps, for example, seem prone to this sort of failure.

    LeisureGuy

    22 February 2014 at 11:01 am

  5. If you are having trouble lathering i would suggest any of the HTGAM Synergy soaps. To me, and I realize it is all individual preference, they are the easiest to lather. I agree with your Merkur Slant suggestion and experimenting with blades.

    Michael Napier

    22 February 2014 at 11:24 am

  6. I think very hard water would probably stymie even a HTGAM soap, though I agree that they lather superbly. It’s one of my favorite soaps these days.

    LeisureGuy

    22 February 2014 at 11:32 am

  7. I have read the 5th edition of your book, & recall the allusion to hard water. I tried “cutting” through all this mess by asking my dermatologist to perform electrolysis on my face & head. She refused, stating some of the doctors there did it to their faces, & their skin is just starting to recover after 2 years! I’m jobless, so cannot spend ongoing funds to tweak my shaving regimen. The current status quo works well enough, & only when I get agitated enough do I make changes to equipment. My plumber once confirmed the water is not hard, it’s just that the water/sewer rates are off the gouge scale where I live near LI, NY. I consider the entire state as the “Shakedown Capital” of the world. Thank you for ongoing valued advice & repartee.

    BIG CHRONO

    22 February 2014 at 2:48 pm

  8. Citric acid is pretty inexpensive and might still be worth a try if you find a small amount—eBay would be a good place to look. I blogged earlier on it. It’s used in canning and also as a salt substitute (cf. lemon juice).

    LeisureGuy

    22 February 2014 at 3:26 pm

  9. Indeed, citric acid is quite common, & may be viable as a test. I just have to ensure it does not come in direct contact with my razor, & corrode the chrome plating. I will try to procure some & debrief you later.
    Ciao/Mein. (I’m studying Italian & Chinese.)

    BIG CHRONO

    22 February 2014 at 4:08 pm

  10. Citric acid sold in a dry powdered form is commonly sold in markets and groceries as “sour salt”, due to its physical resemblance to table salt. It has use in culinary applications where an acid is needed for either its chemical properties or for its sour flavor, but a dry ingredient is needed and additional flavors are unwanted (e.g., instead of vinegar or lemon juice). {Courtesy of Wikipedia}

    BIG CHRONO

    22 February 2014 at 4:17 pm


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