Later On

A blog written for those whose interests more or less match mine.

Archive for the ‘Shaving’ Category

Supersmooth with Fatip Testina Gentile, thanks to Wee Scot and Formula T

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SOTD 2017-01-21

I ordered some samples of Wet Shaving Products shaving soaps, both Formula T (tallo) and Rustic (vegan), and Mahogany has to my nose a very pleasant fragrance. Since the samples come in 1-oz tins (some with threaded lids (I believe those are newer) and some with friction-fit lids), I decided to do a Tiny Town shave: small tin, small brush, small aftershave.

The Wee Scot, though small is stature, is a formidable brush, and it did a fine job. I used a regular-sized razor, the estimable Fatip Testina Gentile, which joins the ranks of mild-aggressive razors: mild in feel, aggressive in performance. The Testina Gentile would be an excellent razor for a novice because it is an excellent razor. Even you who are experienced DE shavers might at some point give it a try.

Three passes, totally smooth result with no nicks or problems, and a splash of Chiseled Face Trade Winds from the sample

A pouring, drenching downpour early this morning, but the sun has come out for a beautiful day. No carnage yet visible, but it’s early.

Written by LeisureGuy

21 January 2017 at 10:31 am

Posted in Shaving

Sharpologist has a summary of a discussion of slant razors

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I did participate. Here’s the article.

Written by LeisureGuy

20 January 2017 at 10:37 am

Posted in Shaving

Inauguration day shave: Vie-Long horsehair, Van Yulay After Dark, and the X3

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SOTD 2017-01-20

Horsehair brushes work best if soaked before each use, so I wet the knot well under the hot-water tap and let the brush stand while I shower. After my shower, I’m ready to shave, and so is the brush.

I like the fragrance of Van Yulay’s After Dark, and the lather is wonderful. This soap is not lard-based, but it is not vegan since it uses emu oil. Its ingredients:

Stearic Acid, Aloe Vera, Coconut Fatty Acid, Castor, Glycerin, Potassium Hydroxide, Coconut-Emu-Babassu-Olive-Argan-Jojoba-Oils, Calendula, Extracts, Poly Quats, Sodium Lactate, Allantoin, Silica, Liquid Silk, Bentonite Clay, Essential Oil, and EO’s and Fragrance

I added a driblet of water three times as I loaded the brush, each time brushing the small amount of added water until it disappeared into the brush and lather. It’s a very slick lather.

Three passes with the X3 resulted in a totally smooth face. Some men report that for them the X3 is inefficient and they have trouble getting a smooth result. That is not at all the case for me: I routinely and easily get a very smooth result in three passes, although the razor does feel mild. But that’s how it feels, not how it performs (at least not for me).

A splash of After Dark aftershave, and we have a new president.

A note regarding the Standard razor:

Nonstandard aspect of the Standard handle: A reader just queried me on whether the Standard handle works if you remove the little double-threaded lug. (I used LocTite to secure the lug permanently in the Standard head, so that my Standard works is now like any three-piece razor: a threaded lug attached to the cap, and a tapped handle to match.) I have used that Standard head on several different handles, and it now is on a Wolfman handle. I did not try the handle with other heads, since the reason I switched handles was that I didn’t especially care for the Standard handle, but prompted by the reader’s comment I experimented using the Standard handle with some other heads:

  • With Maggard V3A head: works fine
  • With iKon X3 head: works in terms of threading, but the Standard handle is not tapped deep enough so I could not fully tighten the head
  • with Above the Tie S1 and R1: doesn’t work because the threads are a mismatch

I don’t understand what is going on, but it seems clear that you can use the Standard head (with the little lug) on other handles, but the Standard handle in general doesn’t seem to work with other heads. It would be better to buy a handle separately—e.g., one of these.

Written by LeisureGuy

20 January 2017 at 10:21 am

Posted in Shaving

A summertime shave on a cold, rainy morning: Dr. Jon’s Savannah Sunrise, with the German 37 slant

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SOTD 2017-01-19

When the weather’s dark and stormy, getting a little fragrance of late summer is quite pleasant, and Dr. Jon’s Savannah Sunrise does the job: “Orange Blossom, Peach, Gardenia, Jasmine, and Honeysuckle.” It’s like a mini-vacation—well, a nano-vacation—to a warmer season.

The Maggard 22mm brush looks as though the knot is tilted, though I’ve not noticed that before. I just checked and don’t see it now. I did push the knot over a little to hold the lid in place for the photo, so that may be the cause.

The Savannah Sunrise soap I have is vol 1 (i.e., version 1), but I’ve tried his vol. 2 (ver. 2) formulation in Defiance, and it works well. But certainly no problems this morning with the vol/ver 1 Savannah Sunrise: excellent lather even not considering the fine fragrance.

RazoRock’s German 37 slant is quite good, and a great bargain at $16. (You can also buy the head by itself for $12.) It’s the least expensive route to trying a slant, and IMO it’s quite a good slant.

Three passes, smooth result, and a splash of Savannah Sunrise to extend the mood and fragrance. Rain has let up for now, but more storms are on the way. I just hope it stays cold so the precipitation in the Sierras will be snow.

Written by LeisureGuy

19 January 2017 at 9:00 am

Posted in Shaving

The Sharpologist asks, “What Is The Best Mild Safety Razor?”

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Mantic59 has a new article at Sharpologist in which he reviews a variety of “mild” safety razors, and I think he is talking mostly about comfort, though he also includes the Weishi, which is also “mild” in performance—that is, it is (very) inefficient.

Here’s the list from the article, which is worth reading for the discussion.

  • Dorco PL-602
  • Feather AS-D2
  • Maggard V3 head w/ MR7 or MR11 handle
  • Merkur 15C
  • OneBlade
  • Parker “Twist To Open” (TTO) Razors
  • RazoRock Baby Smooth
  • Weishi (& Clones)

The Dorco PL-602 and the Feather AS-D2 are both quite comfortable (“mild” in that sense) but also quite efficient (“aggressive” in that sense).

I find the Maggard V2 open-comb head is “milder” (more comfortable) than the V3 and also more efficient, so I would have picked the V2OC over the V3.

I have no experience with the Merkur 15C, and the OneBlade, though quite good, is a single-edge razor using a special blade made by Feather.

The Parker TTO razors are not all that good for me, but I’m surprised that the list doesn’t include the Parker 24C and 26C (same head), which match the Maggard V2OC in comfort and efficiency.

The RazoRock Baby Smooth is a superb razor, but it is not longer made: extremely comfortable and extremely efficient, much like the Dorco PL-602, which (like the Baby Smooth) curves the blade more than most DE razors. The article promises it will return in February, so I’m keeping my fingers crossed. (At one point, Italian Barber said that the razor would not be re-issued; if they have changed their mind, let us all rejoice.)

UPDATE: I just remember a current RazoRock razor that should definitely be on the list: the RazoRock Old Type: extremely comfortable, extremely efficient, just $15. /update

The Weishi is certainly “mild” in terms of comfort, but it is so inefficient that I would not recommend it to a novice. It is also, IMO, over-priced for what it is.

To his list I would add the Fatip Testina Gentile, which I used in yesterday’s shave, along with several iKons: the 101, the Short Comb, and—if we include slants—the 102 and the X3. iKon’s Classic Open-Comb (B1-coated stainless steel) is also quite comfortable.

And if the article is going to venture in the price range of the OneBlade, then I definitely think the Rockwell 6S should be included in the initial list of mild razors rather than listed as an afterthought: the 6 baseplate “settings” are all extremely comfortable while being also extremely efficient

Written by LeisureGuy

18 January 2017 at 10:33 am

Posted in Shaving

Omega boar, Phoenix Artisan Solstice, iKon Short Comb, and Hermès Eau d’Orange Verte

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SOTD 2017-01-18

The Omega 21762 shown in the photo is a very soft boar brush—the softest I’ve used—and it feels wonderful on the face, though I suspect some would want more resilience in the knot. Even so, it had no trouble at all in working up a fine lather from Phoenix Artisan’s Solstice shaving soap, which has a fragrance I like a lot: “Sage, Sweetgrass, Cedar, Rose Absolute, and Benzoin Resin.” The soap’s ingredients:

Saponified Stearic Acid, Aqua (Water), Saponified Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil, Saponified Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil, Saponified Garcinia Indica (Kokum) Seed Butter, Saponified Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter), Saponified Persea Americana (Avocado) Oil, Sodium Lactate, Glycerin, Fragrance

Someone recently asked about the iKon Shavecraft Short Comb razor, so that’s what I used today. The Short Comb head is mounted on an Above the Tie Kronos handle, the ATT handle most comfortable for me. The base of ATT’s handles is a convex curve, so you cannot stand the razor upright (as for a photo), which presents no problems for most.

The Short Comb, like so many of iKon’s razors (with the notable exception of the Shavecraft Tech), is very comfortable and also very efficient, so I had no problem at all in getting a trouble-free BBS result in three passes.

A tiny dot of the moisturizing Hermès Eau d’orange verte, and the day is off to a good start.

Written by LeisureGuy

18 January 2017 at 7:57 am

Posted in Shaving

Soap Commander Endurance, the Fatip Testina Gentile, and Barrister & Mann Spice Reserve

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Soap Commander soaps are quite good, and the lather from Endurance was excellent, thanks in part to the Maggard 24mm synthetic brush. I used a little too much water, but just loaded a bit more and it worked out fine.

I used my Fatip Testina Gentile, and indeed the testina is very gentile: extremely comfortable with little blade feel, but totally efficient. This is an admirable razor, IMO. I did not like the Fatip Grande because it was so uncomfortable, but the Testina Gentile is a completely different matter.

Three passes produced the smooth finish one wants, and then a splash of Barrister & Mann Spice Reserve finished the job. The day is off to a good start, thanks to the mindfulness meditation a shave can offer.

I should note that there are other types of meditation, as noted in this brief video:

That’s from this OpenCulture post (which has a couple of other videos, by David Lynch) by Colin Marshall.

Written by LeisureGuy

17 January 2017 at 9:29 am

Posted in Shaving, Video

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