Later On

A blog written for those whose interests more or less match mine.

Archive for the ‘Shaving’ Category

Chiseled Face Midnight Stag and the Rockwell R4

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Extremely good shave today. Brush selected in solidarity with a friend’s father-in-law in South Korea. (Long story.) The bush is a Maggard 24mm synthetic.

Midnight Stag is an unusual but pleasing fragrance: Russian Leather, Motor Oil, Hoppes #9, Birch Tar, Oakmoss, Gasoline, Smoke, Cedar, Cade, Bergamont, Vanilla. The ingredients:

Stearic Acid, Aloe Vera Juice, Potassium Hydroxide, Beef Tallow, Coconut Oil, Castor Oil, Glycerin, Fragrance, Mango Butter, Avocado Oil, Silk Powder

The lather was excellent, and the Rockwell 6S remains a favorite razor: top-notch in all respects. I started with the R3 plate as my standard, but now use the R4. All plates are comfortable and efficient, and this morning I easily got a BBS result with no trace of a nick—indeed, no close calls.

A good splash of Midnight Stag aftershave, and the weekend begins.

A commenter pointed out that the upcoming Rockwell Model T adjustable will include some cast zinc-alloy parts. From the Kickstarter update post: “The new materials for the production that will ship to the backers will consist of an internal stainless steel rod, 12 parts of machined chromed brass, and 4 cast chromed zinc alloy parts.” Gareth explained in an email to me:

Changing those 4 (of 17) parts to zinc alloy was an unfortunate consequence of the cast brass tolerances simply not producing a razor that functioned properly in full production. . . Gillette’s all-brass razors were stamped brass, and then chromed. We were attempting to use cast brass, which unfortunately does not produce tight enough tolerances in full production for the Model T to function as intended. Brass stamping is what create the well-known variability between Gillette adjustable models, and in some cases between units of the same models, which is an affect we wanted to avoid.

I was initially taken aback by the news, but the more I thought about it, the more I realized that Rockwell knows more about the production process and its requirements than I ever will, and I believe in their intentions to deliver a quality product that matches the high standard set by the final version of the 6S. My belief is based on their response to the initial 6S problems (when they attempted to use cast stainless steel), which involved finding a better way to do it and replacing all the razors of the unsatisfactory first run. In other words, Rockwell has proven itself to be trustworthy, so I trust them. I’m looking forward to the shipment of the Model T in late July (the usual Kickstarter production slip due to the mismatch between optimistic plans and harsh reality—e.g., the discovery that the cast-brass head would not work).

So my own decision is to stick with the Model T. Gareth mentioned that he is looking at an all-stainless Model T, which presumably would be more expensive, and that will be interesting to see. In the meantime, I’m looking forward to the current model T—stainless steel, brass, and zinc alloy, each selected for being able to do the job well and also be manufacturable.

Written by LeisureGuy

25 March 2017 at 9:43 am

Posted in Shaving

Tim’s Soap Wood & Roses, Fatip Testina Gentile, and Anthony Gold’s Red Cedar aftershave

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I did quite get the Omega 20102 fully loaded—it’s a big knot, and I should have added water during the loading and continue loading a while longer. That’s the trouble with constantly switching the tools: you can’t just fall into a routine. I suppose that’s also the benefit: you have to pay attention. I didn’t.

Tim’s Soap Wood & Roses is a very nice fragrance:

This is the result of my long-standing love affair with the combination of sandalwood and rose in old-line British wetshaving products. Rich and decadent, evocative and comforting, this is as complex as scent gets. While hints of pepper and musk add depth, the classical duo of sandalwood and rose is powerful and layered enough to stand alone. Classically built, Wood and Roses is meant for the Anglophile, the fan of last-century fragrances, and any guy who – like me – has bought every sandalwood product he can get his hands on since the first day he encountered this marvelous, mysterious note.

The formulation is fairly simple, with avocado butter the only exotic ingredient: “Stearic acid, water, coconut oil, potassium hydroxide, fragrance, sodium hydroxide, avocado butter, sodium lactate.” It is a very nice soap that lathers easily and feels good on the face.

As I’ve noted, Tim’s Soap has closed its doors, so this is now officially a vintage soap.

Fatip’s Testina Gentile is a great razor, IMO: extremely comfortable and extremely efficient, and hefty in the hand (since it’s plated brass, though it’s also available with a wood handle). Three passes, perfect smoothness, and not the hint of a nick.

A good splash of Anthony Gold’s wonderful Red Cedar aftershave, from The Copper Hat, and the day is launched. And I had bacon for breakfast, thanks to a sale at my supermarket: 5lbs of thick-cut pepper bacon for less than half price. 🙂

Written by LeisureGuy

24 March 2017 at 9:24 am

Posted in Shaving

Vie-Long and Meißner Tremonia Lavender de Luxe, then the Progress and Chatillon Lux

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The Vie-Long horsehair brush shown did an excellent job of bringing lather from Meißner Tremonia’s excellent Lavender de Luxe, and it does have a great fragrance.

I must have just changed the blade in the Progress: the feeling during the shave was an extreme smoothness, gliding over my face with no problems, just wiping away the stubble.

A splash of Chatillon Lux’s Champs de Lavande, and I’m refreshed and ready for the day.

Written by LeisureGuy

23 March 2017 at 9:12 am

Posted in Shaving

The smallest collection comprises three items.

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f you have one of a type of item, that’s just a possession; if you have two, then you have a “pair” of them or a “brace” of them (e.g., a brace of dueling pistols); at three, the word is “collection.” I suppose the idea is that we have a common word for a pair of items (there, I’ve just used it), but no common word for three items of a kind, and we switch to “collection.” This must be ancient, since it is in effect, “one, two, many.” We do have “a few” (3-4, IMO) and “several” (5 or 6, 7 at the most, IMO).

Of course, you can have a collection of collections (e.g., you collect card decks (a deck being a collection of cards) or jigsaw puzzles (each puzzle a collection of pieces). (Obviously, you can also have a collection of pairs, as for those who collect salt-and-pepper sets.)

Note, however, that we are restricting ourselves to instances in which the components are of individual interest: a salt shaker does not represent a “collection” of salt. For aggregates of indistinguishable items, we might use, say, “a bucket of x” or “a bag of x,” but we would never say “a collection of x.” A collection of chess sets, however, is a collection of sets (a tip-off word) that are collections of chess pieces.

Let’s define collection depth as the maximum number of levels of a collection (since some collections within a collection may not be a complete collection—a card deck missing some cards or a jigsaw puzzle missing some pieces).

A collection of shaving brushes: collection depth = 1
A collection of straight razors that includes one or more 7-day sets: collection depth = 2
A collection of 20-pack cartons or carts of packages of five blades each—e.g., I have cartons of Astra Superior Platinum and Wilkinson Sword blades, and cards containing 20 packs of Gillette Silver Blues, Zorriks, and others, and each of the packs is a collection of 5 blades. Collection depth = 3

Any ideas for collection depth = 4? It need not be shaving related, but cool if you can do it.

Written by LeisureGuy

22 March 2017 at 2:20 pm

Posted in Daily life, Shaving

The redoubtable iKon 101 with i Coloniali shaving soap and Chatillon Lux aftershave

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Mr Pomp did a good job with i Coloniali’s mango-butter shaving soap, which comes in a terra cotta bowl. This soap is one for which it’s good to add a little water during loading.

The iKon 101 is an underappreciated gem of a razor, very comfortable and very efficient. Three passes gave me a BBS result, though some blade-buffing was required. I think iit’s time to replace the blade.

Chatillon Lux aftershaves are quite nice. Today I used Gratiot League Square Aftershave: tobacco, leather, rose, clove, nutmeg, sandalwood, vetiver, vanilla, musk, bergamot, and amber are the fragrance notes. Ingredients: Denatured alcohol, chamomile extract, calendula extract, witch hazel, aloe vera, cat’s claw bark extract, vegetable glycerin, menthol and fragrance.

A fine mid-week shave.

Written by LeisureGuy

22 March 2017 at 8:54 am

Posted in Shaving

A safe-harbor shave: Barrister & Mann Leviathan, Fine Classic brush, iKon 102

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It’s good to experiment, but there is also great pleasure in setting out what you’ll use for a shave you know will be good.

Leviathan has a wonder fragrance—leather, coffee, sandalwood—and the soap is really excellent. As you can see from the label, it includes tallow, shea butter, castor oil, coconut milk, safflower seed oil, palm oil, and lanolin. The Fine Classic brush easily worked up a good lather, and the iKon 102 did its usual extremely comfortable and extremely efficient job: no nicks, perfectly smooth result.

A splash of Leviathan aftershave, and I’m set to enjoy a rainy day by staying warm, dry, and indoors.

Written by LeisureGuy

21 March 2017 at 9:14 am

Posted in Shaving

Maggard slant with Derby blade, plus Phoenix Artisan Honeysuckle soap and Irisch Moos aftershave

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The newly shampooed H.L. Thäter brush did a better job, but a reload on the third pass was still required. Maybe I’m not loading enough soap. Phoenix Artisan’s Honeysuckle kokum butter soap always seems very nice to my skin, plus I do like the smell of honeysuckle.

I put a Derby blade in the Maggard slant, and it definitely did a better job, though I still got some nicks at the corner of my mouth and on my upper lip. I’m not sure what I’m doing wrong, but the improvement is good enough that I’m willing to work with it for a while.

A splash of Irisch Moos aftershave, and spring is here.

Written by LeisureGuy

20 March 2017 at 8:21 am

Posted in Shaving

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